The best beginner multi-pitch on Earth stretches skyward from Boulder’s backyard

By Chloe-Anne Swink

The emblematic backdrop of Boulder lies just to its west. Seemingly from out of nowhere, the majestic Flatirons project from the ground over a thousand feet into the sky. The five named Flatirons are part of a rock unit called the Fountain Formation. For locals, they feel almost commonplace, yet they’re recognized worldwide as a renowned destination for climbing. 

Composed of sedimentary rock, these unique features result from the erosion of the ancestral Rocky Mountain range that once lay in this same general area. As the Ancestral Rockies weathered away, coarse sandstone and granite were deposited throughout the area, adhering to the rock beneath. Tectonic activity caused the Rocky Mountain region to rise more than 65 million years ago and thrust the Flatirons at an angle toward the clouds. 

Hiking the Flatiron trails is popular among Boulder residents and tourists. For those who like to get even closer to the action, this area features hundreds of established multi-pitch trad climbing routes, some shorter sport climbs and even bouldering zones.

The First and Third Flatirons hold the most highly trafficked routes. The Standard East Face route up the Third was even deemed “the finest beginner’s climbing in the country” by the legend himself, Patagonia Founder, Yvon Chouinard. 

The majority of the climbing on the Third is relatively low-angle, 5th class climbing, and in some areas, scrambling. Nonetheless, it must be approached with adequate experience, technical skills and an educated risk assessment. 

You might have heard around town that you can crawl up the Second and Third Flatirons in tennis shoes. Some experienced climbers can, in fact, do just that. However, this mindset has led to ill-prepared attempts at what is still a more than 800-foot ascent. Even while roped up, the route is often runout despite the “easy” climbing. The result of a fall with no protection is likely fatal. 

With that necessary disclaimer out of the way, the Standard East Face is a classic 8 pitch route that’s typically climbed on gear and often free soloed by experienced climbers. Following the fixed eyebolts up each pitch helps with route finding. They can be difficult to spot, so it’s best to climb with an experienced leader the first time around. 

Most of the pitches fall into the 5.0–5.2 range. The final crux pitch is graded 5.4 with a seemingly blank slabby section where holds are harder to find and further apart than the preceding pitches might lead one to anticipate. 

After celebrating and refueling with summit snacks, the standard descent requires three rappels using a 60-meter rope.

This is the kind of full day climbing adventure where you don’t have to worry about enduring type 2 fun. The east face sees quite a bit of sun. Start early, dress and pack accordingly, and prepare for traffic on the route and possibly waiting for other parties. With adequate preparation and an experienced leader, this route makes an incredible first multi-pitch climb for kids and new climbers. 

Local climber David Hebel first took his son Trystan Hebel up the Third when Trystan was only seven years old. Trystan and David simul-rapelled off the summit so that David could control the descent and remain next to Trystan the whole time. 

“I think this is the perfect first multi-pitch for a kid because the big belay ledges and the easy climbing all around,” David says. “It’s an easy approach. It’s beautiful views of Boulder. It’ll instill that fire, and they’ll want to do more of it.” 

That same fun and easy climbing is what has led to a history of eyebrow-raising ascents. From climbing in roller skates in the ’50s to rainbow-tutu-clad and bare-naked ascents. There’s a trend of climbing the glowing east face by the light of the full moon and daring scramblers who merge trail running, scrambling and free soloing to ascend the route in trail running shoes with no gear. 

Non-climbers can get in on the fun, too. A great place to observe the spectacle of climbers (and unpredictable antics) is from the East Bench at the end of the Third Flatiron trail. It’s right by the first belay station. The approach is only about 2 miles. It’s accessible from the Chautauqua Park trailhead. Follow Bluebell Road to Royal Arch Trail, then break off onto the Second and Third Flatiron Trail. You’ll arrive at the East Bench, where the ascent begins. 

Learn the Lingo

5th class climbing: Technical rock climbing requiring ropes, harnesses and other climbing equipment for protection against falls, with difficulty ranging from 5.0 to 5.15.

8 pitch: A climb that is broken down into eight sections or rope lengths between belay points—a multi-pitch (see below) climb requiring multiple belay stations and rope placements. 

Approach: The hike or walk from the trailhead or parking area to the base of the climbing route.

Belay station: A secure, anchored point where climbers can stop, rest and belay (securely hold the rope) of their partner, or where they can rappel down.

Bouldering: A form of rock climbing that involves climbing short, low walls without ropes or harnesses, relying on thick mats for safety and focusing on problem-solving and explosive movements.

Climbed on gear: A climber uses temporary protection devices (also called “pro” or “gear”) to clip their rope to, allowing them to ascend a route.

Crux pitch: The most difficult section or sequence of moves within a single pitch (a rope length) of a climb.

Free solo: Climbing a route without any ropes or other safety equipment, relying solely on the climber’s own strength and technique.

Multi-pitch: Involves ascending routes longer than a single rope length, requiring climbers to break the climb into sections (pitches) and belay each other at the end of each pitch.

Pitch: A section of a climbing route that can be completed using one rope length, typically between belay points.

Runout: A section of a route where there are large gaps between the protection placements (like bolts or gear), meaning a climber would fall a significant distance.

Simul-rapel: A technique where two or more climbers rappel simultaneously while tethered together on the same rope.

Sport climbs: A style where climbers ascend routes protected by pre-placed, permanent bolts, using quickdraws to clip their rope into these bolts for safety.

Trad climbing: Short for traditional climbing where the climber, while ascending, places their own protective gear (like cams, nuts and hexes) into cracks and fissures in the rock for safety, which is then removed by the second climber.