Hitting the Mark

Grindelwald might be your Swiss dream vacation come true

By Irene Middleman Thomas

Depending on how good you are at darts, if you put a map of Switzerland on the wall and hit just southwest of the bullseye, you might puncture “Grindelwald.” This picturesque mountain village has a delightful, pedestrian-friendly feel. Think: Park City, Utah, vibe enhanced by European sophistication. It sits at 3,392 feet and is home to about 4,000 inhabitants. Its heart of the Swiss Alps location offers near 360-degree views of dramatic mountain peaks like the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau—the 11,000-foot saddle connecting the latter two is referred to as the Jungfraujoch, and it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with the highest train station in Europe.

In addition to the breathtaking scenery, this year-round destination attracts visitors with world-class skiing, of course. However, spring, summer and autumn are just as enticing. Grindelwald is a gateway to some of Switzerland’s most iconic landscapes with more than 300 miles of well-marked walking, hiking and mountain paths—many with stunning panoramic views.

Getting Around

Start out from Grindelwald or any of the mountain stations, reached via various railways and cableways. The train system is world-renowned, efficient, reasonably priced and easy to navigate. It is so comfy that many find negligible difference between first- and second-class cars. In a rather endearing touch, conductors pass out small Swiss chocolate bars to passengers on each trip.

With so much to explore in the region, the Jungfrau Travel Pass is the way to go. It lets you use its mountain railways, cable cars, trains and boats in the Jungfrau Region as often as you like from 3 to 8 days. Jungfrau Travel Pass holders can buy a “connecting ticket” to the Jungfraujoch at a discounted price.

Activities

Download the Jungfraujoch Discovery Tour app to be your digital tour guide. In the winter, stroll through the astonishing ice palace tunnels to view intricate ice carvings and sculptures of polar animals, famous people and even a renowned pianist with a piano. Skiers and snowboarders can take one of the many downhill routes here in winter. If you feel like hiking in summer, the app will guide you to alpine hiking trails and easy footpaths. 

No matter the season, a visit to the UNESCO Jungfraujoch Top of Europe train station is a “must do.” The Eiger Express Gondola ride offers special features such as a karaoke car and VIP cars serving champagne.  At the top, head for the Sphinx Terrace for stunning vistas of the longest glacier in the Alps, and views of Italy, France and Germany, amidst a dizzying mélange of tourists from everywhere. 

The Two Cs of Eating

What two foods are Switzerland best known for? Chocolate and cheese. And they are found everywhere. There are so many exotic flavors of Lindt, for example, that folks are mesmerized by the displays. Oh, and the cheeses? Just about every village has its own namesake cheese, and while they may be a bit “fragrant,” they taste marvelous, especially when melted in fondues and raclettes. The cows producing the milk for the cheese still wear those traditional cowbells as they clamber up and down the hills, a truly charming photo opp.

While most Swiss towns offer beloved fondue bistros, Grindelwald’s Berghaus Alpiglen is special, as it is custom to enjoy delicious fondue with roasted small potatoes and bread cubes to dip, then head outdoors at night for a “sledge” adventure in the winter months. Sledging is more akin to bobsledding than to the sledding U.S. folks are used to. No brakes, no steering—just a lot of adrenalin and deep digging in snow boots to manage the 2+ mile Eiger Run course. The wooden sledges are made in the region, as are the velogemel, a wooden version of a ski bike, only found in this area. The world championship of velogemel is held each February and is a festive, friendly event replete with an outdoor picnic area serving up Swiss traditional foods and of course, beer and hot gluhwein.

Where to Stay

Since 1904, the Hauser family has owned and operated the Hotel Belvedere. This gorgeous and well-situated hotel, with a luxurious lobby, outdoor salt-water Jacuzzi, classical live piano and an exceptionally well-trained, multilingual staff is the perfect homebase for your Grindelwald adventures. The restaurant boasts MICHELIN-rated chef Dávid Imre Rózsa, and hotel guests enjoy the use of bicycles, access to the Mettenberg complex and can play golf on the local 9-hole course with no green fees. 

Getting There:

Grindelwald is easily accessible from Bern, the closest airport, 45 miles away, but most international travelers fly to Zurich Airport (ZRH), 87 miles away, with a commute of around 2 hours by car, or a just under 3-hour train trip, directly from Zurich Airport, which typically involves one or two transfers.