Masas and Agaves 

A flavorful Oaxacan experience

By Amanda McCracken  »  Photos by Eli Zatz

Mole at Masas and Agaves isn’t simply a thoughtful blend of spices, nuts, seeds and charred chiles. It’s a rich fusion of family history and culture. Sous-chef Lola Gonzalez uses the recipe passed down to her by her grandmother who was often recruited to cook for celebrations in her small town in Oaxaca, the Mexican state known as the “land of the seven moles.” 

“I can hear my grandmother reminding me when I’ve forgotten an ingredient. We try to solve the problem together,” says Gonzalez. The state of Oaxaca is known for its variety of indigenous cultures well preserved by the state’s mountainous and isolating terrain. Also preserved in those cultures are family recipes. Gonzalez says she can’t share the mole recipe because it subtly changes daily, requiring skillful improvisation. 

“Following my traditions makes me feel proud. Manuel gave me the opportunity to outgrow those same skills my mother and grandmother taught me at a very young age.” 

Gonzalez is easy to spot wearing a traditional Oaxacan dress (her choice over the black t-shirt worn by other kitchen staff) in Masas’ open kitchen. There she prepares creative spins on Oaxacan dishes she and head chef Silvestre Fernandez have
developed together. 

Linguistically the menu represents the authenticity of the food itself. It’s “tinga” not “shredded chicken.” And “birria” not “stewed beef.” Like the ingredients themselves, the names retain their locality.

Vibrant dishes are made from scratch with organic ingredients sourced locally whenever possible. From made-to-order guacamole to cauliflower tacos to pollo rostisado, Masas’ menu has something to please every palate. The most iconic Oaxacan dish is Tlayuda, says general manager Manuel Gandara, a blue corn tostada topped with macha (a slightly spicy, nutty salsa), refined beans and Oaxacan cheese. For a taste of Oaxacan coastal cuisine, try the Kampachi, a grilled white fish marinated in macha aioli served with cilantro-avocado oil and carrot salad. House made tortillas, branded with the agave leaf, adorn plates. 

A Oaxacan experience is exactly what Gandara wanted to provide patrons of Masas and Agaves when they opened in July 2023. “You can buy food everywhere, but if you bring the cultural experience, you are bringing something different to the people,” says Gandara, a CU graduate who hails from Durango, Mexico. He and his two Michoacan partners, David Mendoza and Rodolfo Nunez envisioned a restaurant that would offer guests gourmet Mexican cuisine in an elevated dining experience. 

Masas offers special dinners for Mexican holidays like Cinco de Mayo, Día de los Muertos and Guelaguetza (a Oaxacan celebration of the corn goddess). Four-course meals are paired with Mexican wines and tequila tastings led by the house mixologist.  

Guests gather around traditional dining tables indicative of family gatherings comfortably supported by pillowed seats. Friendly knowledgeable staff are eager to explain dishes and pair flavors with suitable drinks.

Their back-lit wall of agave spirits showcases bottles owned by local patrons who frequent Masas. “It’s a country club system,” Gandara explains. “Buy a bottle, put your name on it and drink from it whenever you visit.”

Masas’ handcrafted cocktails are as enchanting as Oaxaca itself. All are made with Mexican spirits, most of them agave. Gandara says they strive to educate patrons on the many varieties of agave spirits, not just tequila and mezcal.  

If you’re looking for a spin on the traditional margarita, try the Oro Verde, a smooth avocado margarita. For some novelty, try the Quetzal cocktail which comes in the shape of its namesake. This earthy-sweet combination of beet, orange and passion fruit juices mixed with bozal ensamble mezcal, is sure to delight. 

Want to satisfy your sweet tooth without gorging yourself on sugar? Try the pan de elote, a delicate corn cake accompanied by leche quemada (brown sugar fudge) ice cream.

Unlike Americanized Mexican restaurants offering plates of beans and rice in a giant burrito, Masas and Agaves will leave you feeling nourished rather than stuffed. The experience might even temporarily satisfy your travel bug.

When Gandara’s partner Mendoza convinced his “second mom” Gonzalez to move to Boulder from Mexico to make the mole, Gonzalez insisted on using the metate, an ancient stone tool used for grinding. She argued the salinity of the volcanic rock contributes to the flavor.

One might argue, Gonzalez herself is Masas’ secret ingredient.