High Times at High Country

Boulder’s new Colorado craft eatery offers elevated flavor and funky digs

By Kalene McCort  »  Photos by Branded Beet

In late April 2024, High Country open its doors and has quickly become a must-try spot for those looking to engulf their taste buds in otherworldly flavor. Located on the Pearl Street Mall, in the space that housed Hapa Sushi for over 20 years, the eatery is the inventively delicious brainchild of the family crew that runs Gemini, the Spanish-inspired wine and tapas bar next door.

Under the direction of Chef Brian Pierce, his wife Elizabeth Neckes, who is a jack of all trades, her twin sister and award-winning pastry Chef Catherine Neckes and her husband Michael Mehiel, the managing partner, High Country is the pack’s second restaurant concept and, judging by the stellar response, won’t be the last. 

“We are here because we love restaurants,” says Michael Mehiel. “It’s high-energy, it’s demanding and challenging in a way we like to meet.” 

High Country’s varied menu boasts a bevy of comfort food classics with flavorful twists. From creamy and heat-forward Queso Fundido to lemon peppered cauliflower, the appetizers set the stage for a culinary journey that blends the familiar with the exotic—bite after bite.

Adorned with psychedelic art, potted cacti, a gallery wall of faux taxidermy—including a unicorn head—and cosmic murals designed by friend of the restaurant Jason Robinson, High Country is a welcomed addition to downtown’s culinary offerings. A framed print of the iconic illustration “Laundry Day,” by Jeff Drew, featuring a green alien ironing a human skin suit, can also be found within the eclectic space. The restaurant’s mascot is fittingly a mythological jackalope, and a marquee sign displaying “Welcome To Another World” greets diners. 

“We wanted something to complement what we were doing next door,” says Brian Pierce, who grew up in Broomfield. “Gemini is maybe a little bit more grown-up and buttoned-up, and we wanted the energy of High Country to be more playful and unusual—the yin to the yang next door. Colorado is all about recreation and all about fun. This concept is really trying to be a reflection of the culture of Boulder.”

Bohemian humor is mirrored in the food choices and clever naming. Breaking beyond an average crudité, High Country’s Hippie Dip resonates with vegetarians and omnivores alike. This spicy roasted carrot and sunflower seed hummus—paired with seasonal vegetables—is just as  satisfying as it is eye-catching. Car Camper Cheese Fries are reminiscent of a more amped-up offering one may find in the lot of a Phish show or on a bouldering trip. A heady and hearty mix of wings, some featuring a Zesty Ranch Rub that conjures memories of Doritos, an in-house Garden Burger crafted out of quinoa and chickpeas, a tender Pulled Pork Torta and a towering Mile High Burger featuring double-stacked smash patties are just a few of the stars on the menu.

Earlier in his career, Pierce worked at Michelin-starred Manhattan restaurant Estela and later tended to the harvest on a biodynamic farm in the Garden State. His ethos of plating up thoughtfully curated eats, made from quality ingredients, remains a high priority at both of his restaurants. 

“I always love a really delicious salad, and highlighting the farmers market, local growers and producers in that way is something that we are really passionate about here,” Pierce explains. “Boulder is unique because of the amount of growing that happens along the Front Range.”

Pierce frequents a bevy of Colorado-based farms to build his evocative dishes. Produce from Aspen Moon, Hazel Dell Mushrooms, Croft Family Farm, Rocky Mountain Fresh and others are part of the crisp mix. 

High Country’s clever cocktails pay homage to Colorado’s quirkiness. Patrons can unwind on the eatery’s patio with a Frozen Dead Guy. The mix of Slane Irish Whiskey, Mr Black Coffee Liqueur, Boxcar Cold Brew and vanilla ice cream is named after Nederland’s infamous, icy corpse resident Grandpa Bredo, who has been celebrated with a long-running festival that features frozen turkey bowling and frozen t-shirt contests. Even the mocktails sparkle, with offerings like Last Call—a refresher made of pineapple, lemon, almond, cherry and coconut. 

Catherine whips up nostalgia with milkshakes that range from Creamsicle to Chocolate Malted. Her love of pastry ignited in the kitchen of her grandmother, where mint brownies were the main attraction. In her late 20s, Catherine was hired at New York City’s famed Milk Bar and worked under the direction of owner and celebrity chef Christina Tosi. 

Lemon bars, that capture a similar texture as key lime pie, can be found on High Country’s  dazzling sweets menu—along with a heavenly, caramel-drizzled brownie sundae and a flavorful carrot cake featuring brown butter cream-cheese frosting. A pineapple fruit cup, topped with cardamon citrus syrup and coconut whip, is a surprising stunner. 

“Classic American diner desserts is the vibe I was going for,” Catherine says. “I’ve always had a sweet tooth. I’ve always loved to cook and bake.”

Running two successful restaurants on the bricks is no easy feat, but for this crew it’s something they thrive on. For the team, some of the best memories are of operating Gemini during a slammed Dead and Company weekend, serving guests during CU’s graduation week and hosting an array of events from book launches to real estate mixers. 

“It’s fun to be a part of the cycle of this town,” Elizabeth says. “It’s fun to be a part of people’s Boulder experience.”

Fusing imaginative and craveable fare with an environment that lends itself to a concert pre-game or a quick refuel after a day on the slopes, High Country is top-tier. 

“The place we’re sitting in has a long and important legacy in Boulder as the New York Deli for a long period of time and Hapa for nearly 25 years,” Pierce says. “I think one goal that we all share is to further that legacy of this space and continue to have a successful place that’s invested in the community, that people really look fondly upon, to come through on their milestones or celebrations—big or small—whether it’s crushing Bear Peak or coming in for a birthday or graduation. Being built into this community, sharing this space with all those memories past and memories to come, I think it’s part of why we all come to work every day. We just want to further that legacy and contribute to it with our own voice.”

For more on High Country, please visit highcountryboulder.com and follow along on Instagram @highcountry.boulder, 1117 Pearl Street, Boulder. Sunday-Thursday, 11:30am–9pm and Friday-Saturday, 11:30am–10pm.