Underground Spirits
05 Jun 2024
Basement-level speakeasy License No. 1 serves up bygone charm and hand-crafted cocktails
By Kalene McCort
Opening in 1909, Hotel Boulderado welcomed out-of-towners seeking a warm bed, but as the city was dry, folks couldn’t savor a full-strength adult beverage—legally—until 1967. In 1969, Catacombs—an arcade-focused watering hole—opened in the basement of the historic hotel and ushered in a new era of pool tables and pints. The Boulderado was one of the first establishments to obtain a liquor license in Boulder, for its cellar bar, following the repeal. Of the original approved liquor licenses in the city, it is the only one still in use today.
Since 2014, the subterranean space has been home to License No. 1—a speakeasy bar whose cocktail-driven menu and delicious plates beckon folks underground. While no air hockey tables and Skee-Ball can currently be found in the dimly lit bar, the dart boards remain hung. Black and white photos of Boulderites from decades past grace the space, reminding patrons of the good folks who likely sipped—unlawfully—before.
Crimson Victorian couches, backlit stained glass panes and intimate leather booths dot the sensual space that remains a sought-out establishment for after-work libations, impromptu gatherings, unbeatable happy hours and late-night rendezvous.
“It just so happens that we are an awesome bar that’s also 115 years old,” said Jonathan Morse, the speakeasy’s bar supervisor. “When I think of people going out to bars, they want to bring their visiting family to the cool spot in town. They want to bring their dates and coworkers to the coolest, most exclusive kind of place and, without a doubt, we are definitely that spot in Boulder.”
The current drink menu boasts flavorful options that provide the unexpected—sip after sip. Assigning each bartender on his team a spirit, Morse encourages them to craft a cocktail. Collaboration and camaraderie are the driving forces that keep the drink menu fresh.
“With each menu flip, I like to push the envelope for complexity further,” explains Morse, a self-proclaimed “night owl” who sometimes spends years working to perfect a recipe.
“Mine is the Green Man, which is an ode to the druid earth man,” Morse says of his latest refresher. “The name is also an ode to the color of the cocktail. It’s a savory one, like a very dry martini meets a Bloody Mary.”
Arugula-infused Botanist Gin, Hendrick’s Gin, water chestnut-infused Cocchi Americano, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino Extra Dry, tomato water, celery bitters and cucumber-infused O.P. Anderson Aquavit make up the imaginative cocktail.
Also in the mix, folks will find The Shepherd, what Morse describes as “a boozy, tropical, al pastor street Taco” made from Abasolo El Whisky de Mexico, Nixta Licor de Elote, achiote syrup, citrus shrub and pineapple oleo saccharum.
Negronis—a top favorite of Morse—are served up along with artfully made old fashioneds, Manhattans, juleps and an array of wines. Thoughtfully crafted mocktails are also available.
“This is a big passion project of mine,” Morse says. “I spend a lot of time in this dark dungeon.”
A late-night bites menu, served until midnight, offers crowd-pleasers such as truffle fries, calamari with orange sriracha sauce and crispy Brussels sprouts and cauliflower. Sandwiches, burgers and refreshing salads also round out the variety of fare.
In addition to flavor-packed cocktails and mouthwatering eats, License No. 1 keeps the party going with a number of events. On any given night, customers can find legendary blues musician George Nelson belting out covers and originals or catch hilarious comedians who keep the laughs coming.
In its 10 years of operation, the basement-level lounge has hosted wedding receptions, work parties, Boulder International Film Festival mixers and much more. For Morse, exposing folks to new flavor profiles they may be hesitant to try is all part of the fun.
“The drink that you have no idea that you want is my favorite drink to make,” Morse says. “I love walking people through different options, taking them out of their comfort zones. Then the look that I see on their face when they take a sip of something that they love, that is why I do what I do.”
To learn more, visit license1boulderado.com and follow along on Instagram @licenseno1.
Located at 2115 13th Street, Boulder, License No. 1 is open from 5pm to 12am on Wednesdays and Thursdays; 5pm to 2am on Fridays and Saturdays; and it’s closed Sunday through Tuesday.